At 6,643 feet, Clingman’s Dome is the highest peak along the entire length of the Appalachian Trail within the Great Smoky Mountains. Mt. Guyot is second at 6,621 feet and Mt. Leconte comes in third at 6,593 feet. I was in the neighborhood of twelve years old when my parents and I, along with my sister, tackled the hike up Mt. LeConte via the Alum Cave Bluffs trail. It rises steadily the entire distance of about five miles save for one brief drop along a half-mile section. The uphill grade is more than worth the effort for the views at several places are absolutely spectacular.
The trailhead is located on the Newfound Gap Road approximately 8.6 miles from the Sugarlands Visitor Center near Gatlinburg or 20 miles from Oconaluftee on the North Carolina side of the park. It is well marked and has a large area to park due to its popularity. The weather was cool and overcast with a fine mist.
Within the first mile or so, there are several footbridges that cross creeks. Use caution for they can be slippery, especially if it has rained recently. As always, it is a good idea to have extra socks on hand in case feet get wet. It is miserable to have wet feet on a long hike.
Just over a mile into the hike, the trail appears to stop at a large rock formation. However, it actually goes upward through the center of the rock by way of a steep cleft on stairs built out of flat stones from the nearby creek. This is known as Arch Rock and was created by the effects over time by erosion and the elements.
About a half mile farther, the trail leaves the trees behind as it crosses a large rocky outcrop. If the hike has been timed perfectly, there is an explosion of color from the rhododendron and mountain laurel in this area. An overlook spot known as Inspiration Point is just off the trail and offers a magnificent view of the wooded valley below across to the cliffs on the opposite ridge.
From here, the trail climbs steeply another half mile to Alum Cave Bluffs and along the base. The cliff itself rises up and overhangs a large sandy area. The history of these bluffs goes all the way back to old stories of the Cherokee. A mining company was once formed to extract minerals from it and a Confederate fort was even built nearby for protection during the Civil War, because minerals found here could be used to help make gunpowder.
After the bluffs, the trail rises sharply for the next half mile. A small, side trail branches off and ends at a rocky outcrop known as Gracie’s Pulpit. From here, there is a great view of the peaks that comprise the crest of Mt. LeConte. Before the last couple of miles to the top, there is a respite from the uphill climb as the trail briefly descends.
Near the top, the trail crosses a steep rock face. Much care is needed for on the left is quite a formidable drop. There is a steel cable attached to the rock face that should be used in any weather. A steady stream of water trickles down the cliff and crosses the rocky trail. As we slowly traversed this section, my mom made the comment, “It would take a bird to get water from these falls.” This particular landmark has been known to us ever since as “Bird Falls”.
The trail curves back around to come out on Cliff Top. Below you is Bird Falls and the view expands outward across the open vastness of the mountains. Several of the peaks with names commonly recognized in the Smokies are visible from here. The Chimney Tops, Newfound Gap, Sugarland Mountain, and Clingman’s Dome can all be seen on clear days.
It was at this point a light drizzle began to fall. With the amount of rainfall in the Smokies each year, particularly in the higher elevations, it is extremely advisable to carry some type of raingear on even the shortest hikes. We paused briefly to remove ponchos from waist packs and continued on.
Before the end of the trail at a junction, it is said the vista includes peeks at Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge. However, the drizzle had turned into a steady rain with the clouds low on the mountains, so it was impossible now to see very far beyond the next ridge. We turned right onto the Rainbow Falls trail and walked the last few hundred yards to the cabins of LeConte Lodge located off the trail on the downhill side.
Tired and hungry, we sat down to eat a small lunch of sandwiches and granola bars. The cold rain continued to fall and small rivulets ran around us. Though soaked to the skin with my lunch now the consistency of mush, negativity was not about to deter me from what we had accomplished. This was the longest trail I had hiked in my lifetime up to that point. I was thrilled to be there at the top of a mountain in the Smokies no matter what the weather happened to be. The accomplishment I felt warmed me inside.
A short time later, we started back from whence we had come. The rain stayed with us pretty much all the way back and our traction was precarious in some places. The trail itself contained small streams as a result of runoff from the slopes above. I do not believe any of us made it back to the car dry or without mud from a loss of a foothold. This is a fond memory and I know this is an experience I will never forget.
Excerpt from Under the Smoke
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